Boston -- and especially a neighborhood like Allston -- is a city transient by nature. Nothing ever lasts, and 99 percent of the time, that's a good thing. Then suddenly a place like
Reef Cafe closes and my whole world shatters like its storefront window after a drunken Todd inexplicably throws a rock through it at 3am.
Reef was by far my favorite place to eat, not only in Allston, but Boston in general. (
Documented in the Boston Phoenix in September.) It kinda started my health kick, as I replaced several days a week of fast food binges with
Reef's Lebanese cuisine, made on-site by the elder stateswoman of the family down in the basement. Chicken Shwarma was my jam, but the garlic place -- oh the garlic paste -- put this place on the map. And hey, if your girlfriend needed new jeans -- there was a black market shelf near the counter. But that's another story entirely...
I'll always remember Reef having a huge neon sign that said "buffalo chicken wings," clearly a ruse designed to lure drunk college students who didn't know better. I was one, when I first walked in on the recommendation of the Herald food editor, and despite ordering those wings, the guy behind the counter told me they didn't have them, asked why I liked them, and proceeded to make me a Lebanese dish of similiar taste and spice. From there, I was hooked. Kibby, Babaganoush, grape leaves, lamp kabob... The best-tasting food I'd ever had, and certainly more healthy than a BK Double Stacker and chicken fries.
Salaam behind the counter was as much a friend as he was a business owner, and knew how to cater my order -- every time I called in, without me even asking: heavy on pickles and extra heavy on the garlic paste. That god damn chicken shawarma plate was salvation.
There are rumors the family will re-open a sit-down restaurant somewhere around Boston, but the inexpensiveness and decor of the Allston locale -- from styrofoam plates to enlarged wall photos of Beruit in the early 70s -- will be missed as much as the food.